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The Importance Of Being Alone
The connections I have made through surfing have been amazing. Most days, surfing is a community activity for me. I have always surfed with friends, unless circumstances and desperation for waves forced me to go alone. The conversations, the laughs, and the stoke shared with others somehow just makes life on the sand seem a…
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Surfing, Fear, and Jury Duty
Two weeks ago I was called for jury duty. The morning I was to report, I packed my new book and was resigned to the idea of spending my day in a courthouse. From previous experiences, I was anticipating a lot of waiting. Long story short, by lunchtime I was on a jury. We were…
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Learning To Love The Ride Of Life
Life is full of firsts. First steps. First loves. First jobs. And lasts. Last days. Last words. Last breaths. And in between is life. Life that is full of transitions. Transitions that begin with firsts and end with lasts. I feel like I am drowning in the rip currents of transitions these days. So many…
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The Importance of Slowing Down
Surfing is all about where your mind is. To surf, your mind definitely has to be in the game. Today, I am not sure where my mind was. It was distracted, not concentrating on the task at hand. Wait . . . I take that back. I know exactly where it was. It was…
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We All Need A Place That Feels Like Home
Belonging is a basic need. It fends off the abyss of loneliness which can slowly erode a person’s happiness. For humans, it is essential we belong. To a family. To a group. To a community. To each other. To the universe. This connection is an important part of why I surf. To remind me we…
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Give Yourself Permission To Have Fun?
It is important we give ourselves permission to have fun. “Fun is good.” Dr. Seuss Two years ago I was on a quest to surf every Wednesday for a year. A friend and I subsequently started a blog called Wahine Wednesdays to document our journey. Literally it meant Woman Wednesdays. On one Wahine Wednesday, early…