Ironically, I have learned many lessons about life through surfing.  Over the course of my 11 years as a surfer, I have discovered ways to correlate what goes on in the water to what happens on land.  Surfing has been an excellent teacher.

Here are six lessons surfing has taught me about living a full life.

1. Keep the stoke of a new surfer.

When you are a child, everything is exciting and new. That is the feeling you have when you first learn to surf.  When you actually stand up for a second or two on a wave, the feeling is out of this world. It is exhilarating. You feel like you have just discovered buried treasure. After a surf session, the grin stays on your face all day. I try to remember this lesson on land.  I want to always keep that stoke. That wide-eyed wonder. That shot of pure unadulterated joy! The feeling that life is awesome!

[Tweet “I always want to keep the stoke of a new surfer. Pure unadulterated joy.”]

2. Just Go!

Trepidation and negative thinking can keep me from truly experiencing life. Over the course of the 11 years I have been surfing, I have surfed in conditions that looked less than inviting. I would stand on the shore and complain about the conditions. The tide. The wind. The wave size or shape. When at the end of the day I just needed to go. I needed to stop thinking about it and just do it.  (Nike was really onto something!)  I found that every single time I was glad I went.  Every time, I either had fun, challenged myself, or I learned something. When I make a choice to ‘just do it’ or try something new, if it doesn’t turn out like I expected, I am free from the regret of wondering “what if?” If I am to live my life to its fullest potential, I just need to GO! To just do it-whatever it is. I need to stop thinking of excuses why I shouldn’t and take the leap and JUST GO!

[Tweet “If I am to live my life to its fullest potential, I just need to GO! Just do it!”]

3. See the glass as half full.

In surfing, many times energy is wasted looking for the perfect wave. I go here and there thinking the wave is greener at another break. What I have learned is to just appreciate what is in front of me. To focus on the positive. Instead of complaining about all the things that are not right, acknowledge what is right. Concentrate on the blessings. If the waves aren’t perfect, I can think about the warm sun or the smiling faces in the line up or most importantly my good health that allows me to even be able to surf. The same is true out of the water. When I choose to appreciate what I do have instead of what I don’t, I am able to have a full, grateful heart.

[Tweet “Don’t waste energy looking for the perfect wave. Appreciate what’s in front of you.”]

4. Don’t let fear keep you small.  

A lot of times in surfing I am afraid. I am afraid of not being good enough, of getting in someone’s way, of sharks, of stingrays, of getting hurt, of hurting someone else, the list goes on. All of these fears are valid on some level. However, if I let these fears get the best of me, I would never get in the water. Most times I feel the fear, acknowledge it, and I do it anyway. I refuse to let fear keep me small. To keep me from experiencing the fullness of life and all it has to offer. There are things in my life out of the water I am afraid of as well. Surfing has taught me how to handle this fear. It has taught me that I am strong. That I am brave. It has taught me that if I can look a gargantuan wall of water in the face and either ride it or survive it, I can do almost anything on land. I love the quote by Jack Canfield that says, “Everything you want is on the other side of fear.” I am choosing to NOT let fear keep me from my joy.

[Tweet “I refuse to let fear keep me small. “]

[Tweet “I am choosing to NOT let fear keep me from my joy.”]

5.  Give yourself permission to play in the waves.

Surfing is a crazy amount of fun. In fact, the word fun doesn’t even do it justice. I have learned that it is okay for me to have fun. Let me repeat that. IT IS OKAY TO HAVE FUN. For many years, for whatever reason, I kind of forgot how to have fun.  The uncensored, belly laugh, ear to ear teeth, pure joy kind of fun. The kind of fun you really only allow yourself when you’re a child. Then I learned how to surf. Through surfing I discovered something that made me insanely happy. It helped me discover that if I am to live a full life and truly make the most of my time on earth then I need to find out what excites me, what brings me joy, and then I need to do it! Surfing has opened me up to that. It has shown me that it is okay to want to have fun. That it is okay to want that feeling from childhood where you couldn’t wait to get home from school and just play.

[Tweet “Give yourself permission to have fun; to do what makes you happy”]

6. Stop waiting for the perfect wave.

A lot of times I sit just outside the lineup and wait for that perfect big set to come. I sit and I sit. All the while watching people on the inside catching little peelers. I don’t know if that perfect wave is out there.  But, I do know this, if I spend all my energy just waiting for that one, I let a multitude of other opportunities pass me by. If I am just waiting to make a move until the perfect situation comes, I miss out on chances for joy that I never even expected. So instead of just waiting, make a move now.

[Tweet “No one ever caught their dreams by waiting.”]

Surfing has taught me many lessons about life. The ocean has been my classroom over the years. These experiences in the water have helped me live a more full, passionate life on land. I hope I have been a good student!

Salty Kisses,

Karen