First-The Beginnings of a Surfer


Beginnings…..

 IMG_2973

Like a rose bud that is sheltered from the elements having yet to completely unfurl and experience the warmth of the sun, the first time surfer is just beginning on an amazing journey that comes with riding a surfboard.  They have no idea the exhilaration that is about to greet them as they open themselves up to nature and stand on water to ride their very first wave.

I experienced this most recently over the summer with my 12 year old niece.  While she was visiting, my daughter and I took her surfing for one of the first times.  Like me, Erica has grown up in the Inland Empire. Being a good hour away from any ocean, she hasn’t had too many opportunities to paddle out.  Luckily, once you get to the ocean and track down the equipment,  all it takes is the courage to try…and she definitely had that!!!

Erica smiling from ear to ear
Erica smiling from ear to ear

There is NOTHING like the reaction of someone who is learning to surf.  When they stand on that first wave their face is filled with an inextinguishable smile.  They ride it until the white water topples them over, they tumble around under the ocean’s surface, pop up for air with hair in their face and snot running down their nose and yell

“Woo Hoo…let’s do it AGAIN!!!”

They paddle back for more…and more…and more……

Until their body is exhausted from the depleted adrenaline rush and from using muscles they never knew they had.

It starts innocently enough at first.  They decide to try surfing because they think it looks fun, they’re on vacation, they are a thrill seeker, or they’re just plain curious.  There are many reasons people try surfing…but there’s only one reason they stay.  They’re stoked!!! It is more fun than anything they can imagine.  They’re hooked!!  Once they get bitten by the surf bug they are never the same.

And the first time that bug bites you…you are a surfer for life!

Salty Kisses!

K

For more on the daily prompt “First”


9 responses to “First-The Beginnings of a Surfer”

  1. when I get time I will post the story of my first surf – 1964 @ Waikiki with Chick one of the last of Waikiki beach boys!

  2. I’ve only surfed a couple of times (as a kid) but I do remember that grin when you finally make it onto the board and ride a while. My nearest sensation would be skiing – finally getting the senses together, feeling the snow beneath your skis and simply skiing. Nothing beats it for me!

    • That is a perfect analogy!! One of my passions happens to be surfing but part of WahineWednesdays is about helping people discover their passions!! And just going for it!! I am a mediocre skier…wish I was better actually!! It just makes me smile running into women who know what they love!!!!