When I first started surfing, I quickly became stoked. This surf stoke turned into a surf addition.

Stoked is a word surfers use to express their enthusiasm for surfing. Stoke is synonymous with joy.

The slang version of the word stoke(d) is: exhilarated; excited; intoxicated or stupefied as with a drug; high

Just as with a drug addiction, a surf addiction is real. It takes over your mind. Your body. And your life.

When I first started surfing, I neglected things and people so that I could surf. Instead of folding laundry or getting to a meeting on time, I needed to catch just one more wave.

With surfing, I realized I was experiencing something special. I became exhilarated and excited. I even felt intoxicated. I was learning, this is what it feels like to be stoked. As I became more proficient at gliding along the ocean waves, skimming across the surface, commandeering the crystal transparency of mother earth, I became energized. I became obsessed. I have never had such a fixation in my life.

In the early days of my surf stoke, instead of visiting with friends or returning calls I would search for another wave. Responsibilities fell by the wayside. I would dream about surfing. I started hanging out with surfers. I became totally preoccupied with all things surf related. I wanted  to watch surfing, read about surfing, talk about surfing, dress like surfers, etc.

It became a crazy obsession. I became addicted. I became stoked!

Sometimes, I put my health at risk by surfing with sting rays, sharks and in the winter, bacteria infested waters.

I know I am not alone in my surf stoke addiction. In 2009, Surfing magazine published a survey called “Are You Addicted To Surfing?”  My guess is, if you have to read the survey . . . the answer is yes!

Stoke does not discriminate. Young. Old. Somewhere in the middle. Male. Female. Beginner. Pro. Black. White. Brown. Purple. Anyone is susceptible.

Now, I am not a scientist so don’t quote me, but I am pretty sure there is a chemical reaction going on here. I can bet neurotransmitters are firing like crazy when surfers get that rush. Just as using drugs floods the brain with pleasure inducing dopamine, so does gliding down the face of an overhead, glassy wave with nothing in front of you but green water.

I have several people in my life whom I love that  struggle with addiction and I by no means want to trivialize their or anyone’s experience. Their affliction is real and they fight battles daily. My habit brings minimal pain and suffering. It is imperceptible compared to what some people endure when dealing with substance abuse. How I can relate is needing just one more fix to feel that high . . . that stoke.

Fortunately for my family, I have managed to find a way to balance my surf addiction with my responsibilities so there’s no need to call child protective services. I am my own boss and have not lost my job. And my friends either surf along side me or have learned to love me despite my obsession . . . my crazy addiction to surf stoke.

[Tweet “Life is too short not to be stoked.”]

So here’s my question for you? What is your obsession? What are you stoked about? Life is short! It’s time to find out!

Salty Kisses,

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